I was a bit early in changing out my brakes (the rear pads were about 4mm thick), but out of respect for my car and the safety of myself and others, I went ahead and did the rear brakes on my ES350 today. Spent the afternoon sweating and putting on the new parts, and after test driving it I’m happy to say she brakes better now (or rather it feels like it comes to a stop sooner than it did before with the same amount of brake pedal force) and zero wobble/vibrations/noises. Day well spent 🙂↕️
Good time to flush your brake fluid as well and renew all the fluid. I did my brakes a few times on my truck and a mechanic suggested I should also renew the fluid as it needs complete replacing every few years. Apparently, the fluid over time collects water, which reduces its hydraulic force and also starts rusting parts in the system. Renewing the fluid serves to keep up maximum pressure and protect the system from rust over time.
Very true. Wise words. The brake fluid was replaced only last year though, so she’s good!
That’s also the thing I love about working on and maintaining your own vehicles … over time you learn new little things as people watch you work. You work on this and someone comes by and suggests you do this added thing or do things in this way or that way … they share their experience, just because they want to. You would have never learned those little things if you had gone out there to ask or interview people … you learned them because people saw you putting in the effort to do the work.
I’m no pro but every time I worked on my vehicles, I often had a mechanic friend or acquaintance come by or someone heard that I was doing the work and they offered advice or direction without being prompted.
When you start doing this kind of work … other knowledgeable people automatically want to jump in to help.
Keep working on it all … you only learn more, the more you do it.
I don’t know how to do a brake job. How difficult would you say it was to learn?
If you have a basic understanding of mechanical workings, really easy. Typically after removing the wheel there are two bolts to remove to take off the caliper (the bit that holds the pads and depresses them against the discs). Then you loosen the bleeder valve (if you put a length of clear hose over this first you can usually do it without getting air in the line) to depress the piston in the caliper so you can fit in your new pads.
Then reassemble everything (there may be some clips to hold the pads in the proper place) in reverse order. If your rotors are grooved you need to either replace them or take them to a shop to get them turned.
I would suggest watching a YouTube video about changing the pads for your specific vehicle.
It is a job that takes very little in the way of specialized tools. A jack, a wheel chock, a handful of wrenches, a piece of hose, or a balloon (to put over the bleeder nipple), there is a tool to depress the piston in the caliper, which is likely under $20.
I had a car that I was unable to get my rotors off for years (finally figured it out) and had to change my pads quite often, I got really quick at doing it.
I just use a padded c clamp for the piston. Dunno if that’s okay to do…
Anyway, a huge number of shops will tell you that you need pads replaced, but charge you for new rotors too. Sometimes without even telling you, and other times insisting that they ONLY replace it all together.
If you replace your brake pads as needed then you shouldn’t need to replace the whole thing every time.
I really appreciate the quick overview! Thank you.
I’ll add some notes to this guy, on the “no specialized tools required” this may be a misdirect.
Depending on your vehicle, you may need an OBD reader to release the parking brake into a “servicing mode” (if your car has and E-parking brake (where there is a button to apply to parking brake instead of a just a typical hand brake) you’re most likely gonna need an ODB reader that has function tests) and some, mainly euro, cars have odd socket types for brake components, Torx and multispline/triple squares are common on VWAG, and E-Torx on anything Merc, your handbrake may also require a wind back tool as some don’t just “push” in. These are tools which can sometimes be a pain to find someone selling, or just annoyingly expensive.
Also most modern cars, mainly euro again, will require rotor change every time you do pads as the rotors metal is hardened more on the inside, so if that is suggested, do it, might be more expensive, but if you don’t, it can become a lot more expensive.
Sounds like me trying to advise you don’t do brakes, but no, doing your own work on cars can be a massive pain but also rewarding, and if you have to buy tools to get the job done, it sucks initially, but those tools can last a life time and help with with tons of other jobs, and if you’re like me, you get to appreciate the engineering into these simple components we take for granted, just do some research on your car, be safe and enjoy!
Another word of advice, if you live near the coast or in any countries “rust belt”, penetrate oil can be a life saver!
I’ll add some notes to this guy, on the “no specialized tools required” this may be a misdirect.
The last brakes I changed were on a 2007 Chevy Trailblazer, and before that, a 2001 Toyota Avalon, and a 2001 VW Jetta. None of those needed anything special outside my meager tool kit and the piston compressor. I did not stop to think newer cars may be more openly hostile to home repair now.
Work as a dealership mechanic and it is sad just how many steps manufacturers take to make it near impossible for the at home mechanic to work in their own vehicles. Most Japanese cars are more friendly, but even they can be a pain, anything euro really wants to make it hell for you. Don’t have much USDM experience, but I wouldn’t hold much faith out for them
You do not need to open the bleeder screw to change pads. The fluid will get pushed up into the master cylinder reservoir when the piston gets retracted. This will raise the fluid in the reservoir a tiny but but unless the fluid was topped off all the way to the top when the pads were worn, then a little bit of fluid must be removed with a turkey baster.
Thanks for the additional info. When I did my first brake job I was unable to retract the piston without opening the bleeder valve, but I did not have a clamp or pad spreader. I always assumed it was needed.
I have a manual now and after 10 years it is still on the original pads, so I am a bit out of practice.
Technically no you don’t need to open the bleeder, but some abs systems really don’t like the debris that aging brakelines shed which is why it’s best practice to open the bleeder and then add brakefluid if necessary.
Many auto parts stores will let you borrow the tools needed with a credit card
Get a Haynes manual for your vehicle and read it a few times. This is your brakes we’re talking about so be sure you can do it correctly. Trusting that some asshole on YouTube knows what they’re doing is foolhardy. Dinks like Scotty Kilmer are on there.
Agreed! For me I bought a two day subscription for Toyota’s technical service manuals. Could I have winged it without paying for this? Maybe. But it had a lot of detailed information, most importantly the correct torque specs for all the different bolts.
What was the cost and do you have the link?
Have a verso 2014, where i change the oils and tires, but brakes would be a new one for me
It was $30 and the link:
Good to hear. The official service manuals are the best but written for their mechanics and aren’t always easy for shadetree mechanics to follow. But a good choice if they work for you. I prefer to have the printed versions if they aren’t huge like a Deere manual.
What’s wrong with Scotty Killer?
I watched him wash out a catalytic converter with soap and water, telling people that it would “fix” their fuel economy. He’s a fucking idiot and you can take anything he says to an actual mechanic where it can be laughed at.
Reflected in others comments, easy to get the gist of it from online videos and forum posts. But as someone mentioned, definitely look up or ask about your vehicle in particular as there may be some extra steps or tools needed to get the job done correctly.
For me, getting the know-how wasn’t tricky, but it wasn’t until I was a good deal into the task that I realized I didn’t have sockets in the right size so I had to take a bit more time to do it the hard way with wrenches.
It’s fairly easy, just watch a YouTube video for your EXACT make and model of car. Order your parts online and don’t buy them from autozone or wherever for additional savings, rock auto is usually pretty affordable
You will save hundreds of dollars by doing your brakes yourself
It’s not difficult, but there are a lot of little details that get skipped quite often, mostly cleaning/rust removal. You technically should resurface or replace the rotors every time you change pads because it helps break in the pads. You should clean the hubs and rotor surfaces where the wheel mounts because debris /rust remaining can make the rotor /wheel not true. The calipers and brackets should also be cleaned and shims/other hardware should be replaced. Caliper bolts /slides should be cleaned / inspected / replaced. If there’s a torn boot on the caliper, then it should be replaced or rebuilt. If you don’t take the time to do it properly then there’s a good chance that the pads will wear out prematurely on one side or could seize up shortly after you do the brakes (happened to me one time) you should also flush the fluid if it looks very dirty as brake fluid is hygroscopic. It absorbs moisture which lowers its boiling point. If your brake fluid boils then your brakes won’t work.
Not OP but most brake jobs are pretty straightforward, if not a little dirty and awkward. You can “learn” it in the amount of time it takes to watch a YouTube video titled “[car] brake change”
Good practice to clean and relubricate the glide pins as well while you’re at it.
