I was a bit early in changing out my brakes (the rear pads were about 4mm thick), but out of respect for my car and the safety of myself and others, I went ahead and did the rear brakes on my ES350 today. Spent the afternoon sweating and putting on the new parts, and after test driving it I’m happy to say she brakes better now (or rather it feels like it comes to a stop sooner than it did before with the same amount of brake pedal force) and zero wobble/vibrations/noises. Day well spent 🙂↕️
I really appreciate the quick overview! Thank you.
I’ll add some notes to this guy, on the “no specialized tools required” this may be a misdirect.
Depending on your vehicle, you may need an OBD reader to release the parking brake into a “servicing mode” (if your car has and E-parking brake (where there is a button to apply to parking brake instead of a just a typical hand brake) you’re most likely gonna need an ODB reader that has function tests) and some, mainly euro, cars have odd socket types for brake components, Torx and multispline/triple squares are common on VWAG, and E-Torx on anything Merc, your handbrake may also require a wind back tool as some don’t just “push” in. These are tools which can sometimes be a pain to find someone selling, or just annoyingly expensive.
Also most modern cars, mainly euro again, will require rotor change every time you do pads as the rotors metal is hardened more on the inside, so if that is suggested, do it, might be more expensive, but if you don’t, it can become a lot more expensive.
Sounds like me trying to advise you don’t do brakes, but no, doing your own work on cars can be a massive pain but also rewarding, and if you have to buy tools to get the job done, it sucks initially, but those tools can last a life time and help with with tons of other jobs, and if you’re like me, you get to appreciate the engineering into these simple components we take for granted, just do some research on your car, be safe and enjoy!
Another word of advice, if you live near the coast or in any countries “rust belt”, penetrate oil can be a life saver!
The last brakes I changed were on a 2007 Chevy Trailblazer, and before that, a 2001 Toyota Avalon, and a 2001 VW Jetta. None of those needed anything special outside my meager tool kit and the piston compressor. I did not stop to think newer cars may be more openly hostile to home repair now.
Work as a dealership mechanic and it is sad just how many steps manufacturers take to make it near impossible for the at home mechanic to work in their own vehicles. Most Japanese cars are more friendly, but even they can be a pain, anything euro really wants to make it hell for you. Don’t have much USDM experience, but I wouldn’t hold much faith out for them