I was a bit early in changing out my brakes (the rear pads were about 4mm thick), but out of respect for my car and the safety of myself and others, I went ahead and did the rear brakes on my ES350 today. Spent the afternoon sweating and putting on the new parts, and after test driving it I’m happy to say she brakes better now (or rather it feels like it comes to a stop sooner than it did before with the same amount of brake pedal force) and zero wobble/vibrations/noises. Day well spent 🙂‍↕️

  • BootLoop@sh.itjust.works
    3·
    6 days ago

    You do not need to open the bleeder screw to change pads. The fluid will get pushed up into the master cylinder reservoir when the piston gets retracted. This will raise the fluid in the reservoir a tiny but but unless the fluid was topped off all the way to the top when the pads were worn, then a little bit of fluid must be removed with a turkey baster.

    • nocturne@slrpnk.net
      2·
      6 days ago

      Thanks for the additional info. When I did my first brake job I was unable to retract the piston without opening the bleeder valve, but I did not have a clamp or pad spreader. I always assumed it was needed.

      I have a manual now and after 10 years it is still on the original pads, so I am a bit out of practice.

    • Junkers_Klunker@feddit.dk
      1·
      6 days ago

      Technically no you don’t need to open the bleeder, but some abs systems really don’t like the debris that aging brakelines shed which is why it’s best practice to open the bleeder and then add brakefluid if necessary.