I was a bit early in changing out my brakes (the rear pads were about 4mm thick), but out of respect for my car and the safety of myself and others, I went ahead and did the rear brakes on my ES350 today. Spent the afternoon sweating and putting on the new parts, and after test driving it I’m happy to say she brakes better now (or rather it feels like it comes to a stop sooner than it did before with the same amount of brake pedal force) and zero wobble/vibrations/noises. Day well spent 🙂↕️
If you have a basic understanding of mechanical workings, really easy. Typically after removing the wheel there are two bolts to remove to take off the caliper (the bit that holds the pads and depresses them against the discs). Then you loosen the bleeder valve (if you put a length of clear hose over this first you can usually do it without getting air in the line) to depress the piston in the caliper so you can fit in your new pads.
Then reassemble everything (there may be some clips to hold the pads in the proper place) in reverse order. If your rotors are grooved you need to either replace them or take them to a shop to get them turned.
I would suggest watching a YouTube video about changing the pads for your specific vehicle.
It is a job that takes very little in the way of specialized tools. A jack, a wheel chock, a handful of wrenches, a piece of hose, or a balloon (to put over the bleeder nipple), there is a tool to depress the piston in the caliper, which is likely under $20.
I had a car that I was unable to get my rotors off for years (finally figured it out) and had to change my pads quite often, I got really quick at doing it.
I just use a padded c clamp for the piston. Dunno if that’s okay to do…
Anyway, a huge number of shops will tell you that you need pads replaced, but charge you for new rotors too. Sometimes without even telling you, and other times insisting that they ONLY replace it all together.
If you replace your brake pads as needed then you shouldn’t need to replace the whole thing every time.
I really appreciate the quick overview! Thank you.
I’ll add some notes to this guy, on the “no specialized tools required” this may be a misdirect.
Depending on your vehicle, you may need an OBD reader to release the parking brake into a “servicing mode” (if your car has and E-parking brake (where there is a button to apply to parking brake instead of a just a typical hand brake) you’re most likely gonna need an ODB reader that has function tests) and some, mainly euro, cars have odd socket types for brake components, Torx and multispline/triple squares are common on VWAG, and E-Torx on anything Merc, your handbrake may also require a wind back tool as some don’t just “push” in. These are tools which can sometimes be a pain to find someone selling, or just annoyingly expensive.
Also most modern cars, mainly euro again, will require rotor change every time you do pads as the rotors metal is hardened more on the inside, so if that is suggested, do it, might be more expensive, but if you don’t, it can become a lot more expensive.
Sounds like me trying to advise you don’t do brakes, but no, doing your own work on cars can be a massive pain but also rewarding, and if you have to buy tools to get the job done, it sucks initially, but those tools can last a life time and help with with tons of other jobs, and if you’re like me, you get to appreciate the engineering into these simple components we take for granted, just do some research on your car, be safe and enjoy!
Another word of advice, if you live near the coast or in any countries “rust belt”, penetrate oil can be a life saver!
The last brakes I changed were on a 2007 Chevy Trailblazer, and before that, a 2001 Toyota Avalon, and a 2001 VW Jetta. None of those needed anything special outside my meager tool kit and the piston compressor. I did not stop to think newer cars may be more openly hostile to home repair now.
Work as a dealership mechanic and it is sad just how many steps manufacturers take to make it near impossible for the at home mechanic to work in their own vehicles. Most Japanese cars are more friendly, but even they can be a pain, anything euro really wants to make it hell for you. Don’t have much USDM experience, but I wouldn’t hold much faith out for them
You do not need to open the bleeder screw to change pads. The fluid will get pushed up into the master cylinder reservoir when the piston gets retracted. This will raise the fluid in the reservoir a tiny but but unless the fluid was topped off all the way to the top when the pads were worn, then a little bit of fluid must be removed with a turkey baster.
Thanks for the additional info. When I did my first brake job I was unable to retract the piston without opening the bleeder valve, but I did not have a clamp or pad spreader. I always assumed it was needed.
I have a manual now and after 10 years it is still on the original pads, so I am a bit out of practice.
Technically no you don’t need to open the bleeder, but some abs systems really don’t like the debris that aging brakelines shed which is why it’s best practice to open the bleeder and then add brakefluid if necessary.
Many auto parts stores will let you borrow the tools needed with a credit card